Ready yourselves dear readers this is probably the most traumatic tale that I have ever told. It's a whopper. Hopefully you will find it hilarious, unfortunately although I can see the funny side I am not laughing yet. Perhaps I never will be ...
This time my travels took me to the exotic Covent Garden. Wild.
Imagine the scene: 6pm, Sunday, late February. I'm in my car looking for a parking spot.
Those of you how know me will know how much I hate parking at the best of times and this certainly was not the best of times.
There is nowhere to park. Round and round we go (me and my gal pal). Nothing. Round again. Nothing.
Tourists blindly step out into the road, rickshaws whizz past, it is getting dark.
I am starting to feel quite fraught. I go up and down any road I can find. I don't care anymore I just want to get out of the car. Up. Down. Round. Nothing.
Eventually I turn down a wide road, parked cars line both sides and it has a string of taxis down the middle that ends with a HUGE lorry.
Obviously I am not going to get a space down here. I drive to the end only to find it is a dead end: a series of bollards separate me from a huge outdoor market with people swarming in, out, everywhere.
I panic. My friend soothes me.
It is a one way system on either side of the taxi rank so I must turn around the lorry and make my way up the other side of the street. Sounds simple but I can't get round the lorry. I can't get the angle right. Oh god. Oh god. Oh god.
My face burns with the imagined faces watching me. I see two policemen in the throng. Oh god. I am freaking out now.
Policeman One knocks on my window. I lower it - it stops halfway - stupid old car - I manually yank the window down - puffing with effort and embarrassment. I can feel my cheeks burning crimson.
'Are you OK love? Do you need a hand?'
I nod.
'We've cleared a space for you -'
I look back and they have indeed removed all the rickshaws and gawking passersby from the area.
Both policemen then proceed to give me detailed instructions on the angle needed to get around the lorry.
I cannot understand. I cannot make the wheels do what they want. Then the lorry driver appears in high-vis. He too cannot get my brain to compute the required angels.
I am on the verge of tears. My friend - choking back a fit of giggles - tells me it will be OK.
WILL IT? My brain screams.
I want to curl up into a little ball and die. Eventually the two policemen and the lorry driver realise that this is never going to happen.
They let me turn around on the spot - swinging wildly into the cleared pedestrian area - and give me an escort - one policeman walking in front and one behind - back down the one way street and finally off to freedom.
I thank them with tears of shame, joy and relief stinging my eyes and then I flee the scene of the most embarrassing moment of my life ....
I never did find that parking spot and I am never going to try and park in central London EVER again.
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Wednesday, 19 April 2017
Saturday, 3 December 2016
Trapped behind a thin veil of politeness
This
journey is one of two halves. The first six hour bus ride was the
best I've ever had. Truly incredible: sleeper seats so long my feet
couldn't touch the bottom even if I tried, with cushioning more
comfortable than many beds I've slept in. At 2am I was not only
reluctant to get off but checking into a
cheap-and-not-paticularly-cheerful hostel was actually a downgrade
from my bus bed!
The
next day I did part two: another six hour bus ride. This could not
have been more different. A cramped bus with hard seats
that could be made to recline the maximum of an inch, whilst I was sitting next to the most annoying person that has ever ever ever ever ever
existed in the world ever. Ever.
She was the personification of when autocorrect keeps changing your word even though you typed what you meant to type each and every time. Or when the self check-out machine freezes and the shop assistant can't seem to see you and all you want is your single loaf of bread. Or when you make a cup of tea only then to realise you have no milk. I could go on but I think you get the picture: she was a nightmare.
She
kept sighing very loudly at odd intervals making me jump. And she had
no sense of personal space at all whatsoever, she kept bumping me and
leaning on me – literally
leaning - on me
watching my phone screen over my shoulder.
I start to feel a need to react but I cannot make a scene – I am far too
British for that – I can't say or do anything outright. But passive
aggression, now that I can do : as
long as there is at least a thin veil of politeness to hide behind I
can show her who's who.
I
start sighing. Very loudly. Okay I lie, not that loudly, but loudly
enough for her to notice – maybe.
This
amuses me briefly, but the 'victory' was short lived as I start to
need a wee. The bus has stopped a few times for people to wee but
this consists of people jumping out and weeing in fields by the road,
can I bring myself to do that?
But what
if my bladder bursts?
Oh
my god I need a wee. I need a wee so bad.
And
just when I think this journey cannot get anymore painful. The
crowning moment.
I
feel something touch my arm. I turn back to see what it is.
It's
a toe. A horrible old cracked toe … touching my elbow.
I'm
done.
Photos taken at Ta Prohm Temple : Cambodia
Tuesday, 22 November 2016
18 hours in silence : from Mui Ne to Suratthani
It began with emotional goodbyes, leaving my little crew and striking out on my own. It really felt as if I were flying the nest, which is weird because I only met these guys a few weeks ago and I left home a few years ago ... nevertheless bravely I board my bus.
I felt fine, quite sad, but physically fine, and yet after my short bus ride into the city I woke in agony. My throat felt as though it had been home to a pair of feral weasels who didn't get along very well, and it hadn't so it was very odd.
After an uneventful first flight, I find myself pondering how many days of my life I have now spent in Bangkok airport, as I lug my backpack to the closest restaurant, waiting for checkin to open.
I sit down and oh my god they have mushroom soup and it's cheap too! I order it and an exorbitantly expensive orange juice. Warm fluids and vitamins: just what I need.
Shortly I am presented with a thimble full of mushroom soup and a vast goblet of orange juice: it's quite comical really.
Shortly I am presented with a thimble full of mushroom soup and a vast goblet of orange juice: it's quite comical really.
After checkin I spot a sushi restaurant, why not? And oh my god they have mushroom soup too! My soup thirst not quite quenched, I cannot resist. However what arrives is (incredibly) even smaller than my first portion. I shot my soup and leave.
Next I spy a pharmacy. Now this is what I need.
I buy some Strepsils, in the most ridiculous packaging I have ever encountered. I've ranted about this to many people and they all believe me to be belligerent but I will leave that for you to decide.
The Strepsils came in a small non-resealable foil wrapper.
Who the hell eats a packet of Strepsils in one??? In fact you're specifically advised not to. Although, admittedly, in this case you might have to because they melted in the heat and become one gigantic Strepsil: ridiculous! I mean really who designed this packaging?
Who the hell eats a packet of Strepsils in one??? In fact you're specifically advised not to. Although, admittedly, in this case you might have to because they melted in the heat and become one gigantic Strepsil: ridiculous! I mean really who designed this packaging?
Somehow I survive this disappointment and eventually arrive in Suratthani, but my problems were far from over. I had already paid for my bus with my airline, but where to get the ticket?
When every sound you make is barely audible, not even a whisper, just a faint rasping punctuated by intermittent squeaks, communicating with people with limited English is very difficult.
Eventually, with a lot of gesturing, I get by, and18 hours after I set off I find myself hoarsely screeching in delight (not unlike a baby owl with a broken voice box) as I spot my friends.
I then proceed to drink until dawn and head off to the infamous full moon party ... so I'm sure I'll be right as rain very soon ....
Wednesday, 9 November 2016
Alcohol Poisoning on a Plane
After
weeks spent in the serenity of Indonesia's small islands and
Myanmar's quiet towns our arrival in Hanoi's downtown was
overwhelming. An area reminiscent of the Greek party islands,
populated entirely by places offering cheap drinks and playing
thumping dance music.
You
know the kind of places you need to
drink to enjoy, lest you notice all the sweaty drunk people dancing to
the same three songs on repeat, asking each the same three questions
over and over again.
Now
I know I've painted a pretty picture here but having not partied in
the best part of three months imaginably I got pretty overexcited. At
our hostel they were offering FREE drinks. FREE. How could I say no?
Cut
to the next morning: I am violently awoken by my friends, essentially
rolling me out of bed. The storm has passed, flights are running, we
need to leave NOW.
Oh
my god. In a flurry fuelled by adrenaline I stuff my things into my
backpack, shoving it all down, no sense, no order, just pushing and
shoving. As I clip it up I realise something is missing.
Where
is my phone?
Where
the fuck is my phone?
My
phone with my bank card and ID inside it…. Shit. Shit. Shit.
I
don’t know, I don’t understand and we have to leave.
I get surprisingly calming hug from a giant Canadian, and then we’re
off.
It
felt as though my head was trying to give birth to my brain. In
the taxi, having the kind of existential crisis that can only be
triggered by an intense hangover, I start to feel nauseous.
My
stomach appears to have been replaced with the drum of a washing
machine. A top loader that could eject items at any moment :
don't worry I'll spare you the grisly details but suffice it to say I
was in a bad bad way.
Thankfully
my friend is prepared and thrusts a plastic bag into my hands….I
sit in the back of the car feeling very sorry for myself.
Somehow
we get to the airport. At check in the woman looks me up and down and
asks my friends if I am ill: I clearly don’t look fit to fly - I
didn’t feel fit to fly to be honest - but I put on my best smile
and (amazingly) she gives us the all clear.
I
spend the remainder of our time in the airport tooing and froing from
the bathroom, questioning what life choices I have made to leave me
in this position.
The
answer is not good ones …
On
the shuttle bus I curl up on the floor trying to soothe myself,
unsuccessfully. On the plane I am much the same until blessed sleep
relieves me briefly, I wake as we touch down.
Thankfully
this story has a happy ending : we arrive at our beach front hostel,
I wolf down a plate of cannelloni (with real mozzarella) and fall
asleep in a hammock.
And
it gets even better!
I
wake up to a message saying that my belongings have been found by a
beautiful human who returned them to me a week later.
So
really alls well that ends well, although there is a moral to this
story : 50p mojitos are definitely a false economy.
Tuesday, 1 November 2016
Nineteen hours
The
journey from Hoi An to Da Lat was always going to be a big one, but I
had no idea quite what I was letting myself in for when I set off.
It
began with myself and a handful of young British travellers standing
in line for the bus and being, fairly almost violently, queue-jumped
by a large group of old Croatian holiday-makers.
“fairly almost violently queue-jumped” : I doubt anyone has ever said anything so quintessentially British before.
Few seats remained when we eventually boarded: whisperingly lamenting our British conduct, because of course we did not want to create any tension by complaining audibly.
I
had the final free seat, or rather bed (this was a sleeper bus):
which was one in a set of three conjoining bunks, two of which were
already occupied by an Asian couple.
I
climbed up, inelegantly (of course), and resigned myself to being the
big spoon in the weirdest cuddle puddle that I've ever being involved
in.
I
settle in as best I can and decide to watch 'The Godfather'. I have
never seen this before (I know, shock, horror) and so I feel that
this is as a good a time as any.
It
was not: I could not follow the plot at all.
It
was not a great copy of the movie and Marlon Brando's mumbles were
all but entirely drowned out by the bus's engine. I struggled
through, but I did not enjoy it as much as I'd hoped.
I
only found out afterwards that the sections that are in Italian are
supposed to have English subtitles: who knew?
This
was not some quirky mysterious director's decision, which seems quite
obvious now...
There
was a brief interlude in my struggle: I was in the seat next to the
toilet and a small queue had formed, whilst a man was waiting
(patiently I am pleased to note) he began to lean on what I can only
assume he thought was a pole.
It
was in fact my leg.
I
sat there, not wanting to say anything, slowly feeling my leg go
numb, suffering full moments of pain to avoid two milliseconds of
awkwardness: the longer it lasted, of course the more intensely I
could not say anything...
We
arrived in Nha Trang at 6am for a quick healthy breakfast of Pringles
and coffee. Then our second bus arrived: only this time we were
picked up by a small van, the very image of one my grandfather used
to drive many moons ago.
This
changeover was a baffling affair, with very little English spoken on
the driver's side, and my Vietnamese being so, well, non-existent. We
got in the van and hoped for the best.
I
was convinced this van was taking us to a bigger bus, a sleeper bus.
It was only when we hit the mountain roads, leaving the city behind
us, that I was forced out of my denial.
When
will I learn that even when you are so so sure, you really never know
what your next 'bus' will be.
We
sat in this van for the best part of 6 hours.
We
arrived in Da Lat some nineteen hours after our original departure.
They
say you learn a lot about yourself when you're travelling. I feel
that this is certainly true of this journey: I found myself: I am an
awkward over-polite Brit: funny how I had to come all the way to
Vietnam to discover this.
Tuesday, 25 October 2016
Mingalabar : Myanmar's thriving nightlife
Night life is Myanmar
is essentially non-existent: ten days into our trip and aside from
falling down drains nothing exciting had happened to us after dark. Please don't get me wrong it is a beautiful country, one of the
best places I've ever visited, but if you're looking for a wild time
(or even a mildly thrilling one) don't come here.
The one exception to this was an evening spent at Inle Lake.
Me and my two travel
buddies headed out to a restaurant for dinner, a little local place
above a clothing shop. We ascended the staircase, dimly aware of some commotion above us, and no sooner had we
emerged than we were invited to join a group of - predominantly Irish - guys already several bottles deep.
It turns out that
bottles of whiskey (served by the restaurant!) were about 90p a pop :
to put that in perspective that is roughly the same as two cans of
coke.
Needless to say the
evening became very exciting very quickly, and our plans for a meal
rapidly dilapidated into a liquid dinner. The lads invited everyone
who appeared to join the table and before long we were a huge group: Spaniards, French, Americans, Scandinavians: very continental!
We were having an extremely jolly time, things beginning to get a wee bit messy (and it was only
8pm) … when suddenly, from nowhere, some club bangers start playing.
We were shocked: Could
this be nightlife in Myanmar?
No. Well not the
nightlife that we expected anyway. It turned out that the music was
coming from the roller disco across the road.
Immediately the lads
were well up for it.
OK, I said, I'm game.
Now I have never roller
bladed in my life, no thats not quite true, once when I was about six
years old I got given a pair of plastic roller blades, fell over
instantly and never used them again.
But I was being bold
and adventurous … and all the fellas were doing it ...
I laced myself in,
stood up, and the fear was immediate: I can't stand in these: why did
I think I would be able to stand in these? Why did I think that this was a good idea? Have I even met me?
Of course I couldn't
stay on my feet for more than seven seconds, much to the hilarity of
the throng of local onlookers that ringed the side of the rink. The
crowd pressed thick around the edges, we were the only westerners on
skates, me the only western woman. They cheered me on, laughing – I
will only assume with me, not at me – as I gracelessly tumbled
around the rink, like a baby giraffe …. on roller blades.
I was down far more
than I was up, but I had the best time, it was hilarious and the
whiskey definitely helped to mask any bruises, till tomorrow at least. I was
however confused: why was no one else was falling as much as me?
It was only afterwards
that I found out that the lads all had previous roller blade
experience.
'I haven't roller
bladed for a good year now …'
'I used to go every
weekend'
I mean what on earth!
No one told me I was the only novice! I was lured into this.
Even so it was still a
great night in Myanmar soaking in the local culture, soaked in the local
spirit…
Sunday, 2 October 2016
And then she was Yan-gone!
After
nearly three months travelling solo two of my bestest girlfriends
arrived to join me in Yangon, Myanmar.
As
you can imagine there were high levels of excitement, and we wanted
to celebrate our reunion in a bar drinking beer and playing cards
(not a particularly demanding request …. or so it would seem).
The
kind of bars that have lounge-style seating and draft beer are few
and far between in Yangon. However, after much searching online, we
pick a place and head out.
It's
a good 45 minute walk but we are enjoying ourselves, nattering away,
taking in the new sites, reflecting on the area's ambience of
colonial decay, dodging traffic on the busy roads, glancing at the
various dishes, knick-knacks, fabrics and pretty dresses on the
street-side stalls.
About
half way it begins to pour with rain. A real deluge.
We
are getting a weary of the walk, ready for a cold drink, when my
friend excitedly exclaims, pointing, 'There! I think that's it, that
sign -'
But
before she could finish her sentence: Whumpf! She was gone.
Disappeared entirely, swallowed by the pavement.
Then
suddenly, as if from nowhere, her head popped up, and as she hauled
herself towards us, she was simultaneously reprimanding us 'Help me
up then!'.
Bemusedly
we grabbed her, only then realising what had happened. She had fallen
into a five foot deep drain, that had been completely hidden by the
lack of street lamps.
Three
incredible ladies from a nearby stall rushed to our aid.
I
told my unfallen friend to look after our friend, whilst I
(gallantly) said I'd get her handbag from the drain. They both stared
at me, 'It's fine I'll sort it', I delegated. I was shocked and
needed us to have a game plan.
As
they sat whilst these women washed her legs, cleaned her wounds and
bandaged her up (they really were saints), I stood at the side of the
canyon with my torch in hand thinking why did I offer to do this?
The
bottom was filled with sludgy water so I couldn't very well get in
and if I did, how on earth would I get out? My friend's rapid escape
from its depths was explainable only by adrenaline...
But
I was too embarrassed to go back empty handed, I wanted to help.
Uselessly I looked for a stick, nothing. Could I use a ladle from
the food stall? I thought wildly: no that would never reach ....
and who would let me dip a cooking utensil into that?
I
was getting desperate when out of nowhere a man (or perhaps some sort
of super hero) appears, he does not speak, he gets his
torch out and I point out the bag I am feebly attempting to reach.
Without a word, I mean it, not a word, he lowers himself down (into
the murky waters), gets the bag out and gives it to me, then he turns
around and leaves, whilst I am dumb-foundedly thanking him.
People
are truly wonderful.
My
friend was surprisingly OK in the end, just a few scrapes and
bruises, although we never did make it to the bar. We came back to
the hostel and had imitation Pringles for dinner and played cards:
not quite what we were expecting, but I was grateful for a calm
ending to what was undoubtedly the most dramatic day of my trip ...
so far (I've only been with these two for a few hours).
One
good thing to come out of this experience, dear readers, is that it
makes good fodder for my blogging, and I am sure that I will have
many posts to follow this one, if our first day together is
indicative of the rest of our trip.
Monday, 12 September 2016
7 hours
I
got on the train and it was rammed. My seat was as the back, I
squeezed along, vaguely aware that I was whacking fellow passengers
with my backpack's many straps. Squeeze, squeeze, squeezing along. At
one point I dropped my bottle of water loudly and had
to bend most inelegantly to pick it up. Generally I was just making a
bit of a scene.
I
finally found my seat but there was nowhere to put my bag. Shit. More
squeezing as I pushed together other people's luggage and harrumphed
my bag onto the rack above us. Phew.
Now
I can relax I thought. Little did I know the ordeal was only just
beginning.
The
'seats' were arranged in groups of 6, I say 'seats' because they were
actually small padded benches, very small for six people. Very
very small. I was sitting with a family of a four and a young woman
on her phone: me between the young woman and the smallest child.
I
settled in as best possible, which was not easy as these trains are
clearly designed with osteopathic torture in mind. The seats
lean forward ever so slightly, so that your upper back is thrust in
front of your hips, and there is literally nowhere to put your arms.
Even
worse than this (yes, it gets worse) the chairs are so thin that
whenever the person behind you moves to adjust themselves they inadvertently push against you and so you must move to adjust
yourself, starting a silent war. I soon found myself
genuinely hating the man behind me.
Finally,
it was just oh so very cold: the aircon cranked up so ridiculously high that I was shivering in my small summer dress.
I got my book out, but before I could finish the first sentence the mother opposite me was forcibly coaxing a palpably embarrassed child to pose for photographs pretending to be asleep on my arm.
Then, immediately as this
ended, the one other white person on the train: an old Australian man,
came over to formally introduce himself to me – because I too am
white. Amazingly
this racial identification was not indicative of common interests,
and eventually I was allowed to settle somewhat awkwardly into my
book : elbows tucked firmly into my sides.
This
relative peace did not last long: soon the child started being very
audibly sick into a thin (perilously thin) plastic bag. We were
travelling backwards, and was suddenly struck with the horrific
thought that I might too be sick: I stared at the page no longer able
to concentrate on the words, a carton of chocolate milk swirling
around within me ....
This
was the first half an hour of a seven hour journey.
Thankfully
somehow I was not sick and the children soon fell asleep: something
that proved impossible for me.
All
in all, when I emerged from the train, some seven hours later, icicles
forming in my hair, back stooped and stiff, like some sort of
deformed snow man, it is safe to say I've never been happier to leave
anywhere in my entire life.
Saturday, 27 August 2016
The pestilential pup
Myself, my bestest gal
pal and her man, were sitting on the fabled paradisical white sandy
beach of Koh Samui, Thailand.
However this was not
the picture-postcard setting that we had anticipated on our
sun-soaked boat ride over from the mainland, as the salty sea-breeze had lightly stirred through our hair, cooling our faces, whilst we
hungrily devoured the surrounding scenery.
Our actual experience
was more akin to an out of season trip to Grimsby, although perhaps
somewhat warmer.
We hit up the beach as
soon as we'd checked into our hostel, but now the sky was a blanket
of grey cloud hanging oppressively low, the sea a reflection of the
above. Grey. Grey. Grey. We shared a dishevelled sarong, far too
small for three, watching the waves crash before us with heavy handed
force.
As we sat here, sipping
lukewarm beers, contemplating our next move, the dog arrived.
We were the only people
on the beach, unsurprising considering the conditions, so this
raggedy, bald-patched, frankly pestilential-looking pup made a
beeline straight for us.
My bestest gal pal was terrified, she hates dogs, even clean, well-kept, pooches fresh from a visit to the vet.
'Don't look it in
the eye, if you ignore it, it will go away' was her man's sage
advice as the dog sauntered up. So this is what we did. With the dog
all of a foot away from us, searching our faces, we strenuously
avoided eye contact.
We looked up, we looked down, to the left, to the right, anywhere and everywhere except at the mutt. This lasted, honestly about 15 minutes, 'its not working' my pal trembled. Yet we continued. Feeling increasingly ridiculous as the time passed.
This dog remained, well
dogged, in its persistence. Another 15 minutes passed.
In the end my pal's man
shooed the dog away and it scarpered instantly, leaving us in the the
blessed peace of our greyscale slice of paradise, after what was
perhaps the most awkward half an hour of my life.
Thursday, 18 August 2016
Boat to Gili Air
At
the crack of dawn I gingerly descend from my bunk bed, change, cram
my remaining belongings into my backpack, hoist it over my shoulder
and leave. Bound
for the neighbouring island feeling excited and nervous: new place,
new people, new experiences await me.
After
about fifteen minutes my ride arrives and a two hour journey dozing
in the back of a minivan ensues. Pretty uneventful.
I
am then dropped at the port, alone, my driver (after reminding him
that my fare included the boat ticket) buys said ticket, hands it to
me and leaves without so much as a backward glance.
Ok. I can do this.
This port is small but busy. Mostly trade: people packing bananas,
pineapples, crates of cola onto small boats. I
pluck up the courage and ask a trader where I should be, he gestures
to some boats but tells me I have to wait a bit.
A
bit passes, then a while. I grab a coffee and a chocolate. I'm
milling around and decide to ask someone how much longer I must wait
- she cuts me off 'that's your boat there, you have to run'
Oh
god. I hate running at the best of times and this certainly wasn't
the best of times. Sunglasses
perched perilously on my head, scolding full cup of coffee in hand,
backpack on back, rucksack on front, I run ... People begin shouting
all around me 'hurry hurry' : I am I was thinking.
Now these boats don't actually come all the way to the shore ... So I had
wade (in trainers and socks because no time to remove them) mid-shin
deep to get to it.
Then
I couldn't get up. Shit. Wet, heavy and now bright pink and panting.
I handed a man my coffee. I still couldn't get up. I offered up my
hand and he pulled me on board. Phew - I made it.
I
faced a boat full of staring faces, 95% of which belonged local traders and
families, watching this red-faced overladen woman struggle to seat
herself.
I
perched on a box with an old lady - she didn't seem pleased to share but
I had to sit. So sit I did.
The
journey was maybe half an hour but it felt like years. Where I sat
the side of the boat came barely above my ankles and I swayed
dangerously with every wave, envisioning myself falling overboard and
then sinking beneath the weight of my bags, pulled down like a
drowning beetle.
Needless
to say this did not happen. I made it. And the destination made the
journey worthwhile : although this may not have been the case if I
had fallen overboard ....
Monday, 8 August 2016
My Oscillating Pod
I have never been known for my elegance. Some people are graceful: everything they do is a fluid motion of class and sophistication. Others (like me) can't even perform the simplest task without resembling a great lumbering bovine creature in human clothes. I'd wager that you've never seen anything less elegant then me attempting to get into a bed suspended from the ceiling.
When I arrived at my hostel my first reaction was extreme excitement: the dormitory room consisted of eleven beds with bamboo frames, suspended about a foot and a half above the floor by thick ropes, on each corner net hangings were artfully bundled and tied together with little bows. Adorable. I could not wait to get in.
However, this was my first day on the island and having much to see and do I resisted the urge and went exploring.
When I returned it was past dark. I realised at once that I should have tested the bed out in the daylight, but I hadn't so I had to make the best of it.
Wary of waking my bedroom buddies I gingerly clambered onto the bed. Immediately it began to swing violently beneath me, oh god, I thought I was going to crash into one of my neighbours: back and forth, side to side, I was being buffeted to and fro. Meanwhile, incomprehensibly, everyone else's bed was completely motionless....
I then struggled, with my eternally fumbling fingers, to undo the hangings and clip them together, to thus seal myself within my oscillating pod. This took ages and still I was swaying dangerously, when I eventually lay down I was feeling sea-sick: waves of nausea rushed over me echoing the waves of my hanging bed.
It was only then that I noticed the fan. Great, I initially thought, but the cord was so high up.... I would have to stand.
Getting to my feet like a new-born giraffe, knees shaking with the tension, legs spread like some sort of ill-prepared surfer, I rode the waves, turned the fan on, almost toppled over onto my neighbour, mercifully managed to keep my balance, and return to a seated position with a bump.
Then I was lying back down, still swinging as wildly as a 1970s suburban house party, feeling sicker and sicker. Eventually the motion calmed and I was rocked peacefully asleep, glad that it was at least too dark for anyone to have seen what a scene I created.
Friday, 29 July 2016
Hostel Lyf
There's
a lot to be said for staying in hostels, the main benefits being the
price and the chance to meet people, and given the choice,
particularly travelling alone, I would always choose a dorm over a
private room.
However,
that said, it is an undeniably weird experience. Sharing your room
with several other people you've never met before, it is unusually intimate for first encounters.
And
for me, I think the weirdest thing about hostel life is saying
goodnight to strangers.
I'll
set the scene. I'm sitting in my bed, top bunk, a guy enters,
he's the bottom bunk to my top, we talk a bit, do the usual introductory questions, where you from, where you going, whats your name etc. etc. It's a bit awkward,
he's standing up and I tower above him, very aware of the fact I'm in
my pyjamas.
Then
he says he's going to sleep. I say me too. He asks if he can turn off
the light. I say yeah sure. He turns it off and gets into bed. I
start thinking should I say goodnight, or is that weird? Or Is it
weird not to say goodnight? Ah I don't know, and now I'm overthinking
it, ahhhhhh
So
I say goodnight, he chuckles and says goodnight, phew! Disaster
averted.
But
then, about ten minutes later, he sneezes
So
automatically I say bless you
But
I'm stilling feeling kind of awkward so I sort if whisper it ...
And
now I've made it weird, I lie there cringing in the darkness, although what this poor guy is thinking I don't know....
eventually blessed sleep arrives and relieves me from my embarrassment
Monday, 18 July 2016
Climbing Sigiriya
We arrived in Sri Lanka
with a clear route planned in our minds : go East : Colombo – Kandy
– Batticaloa.
Day One
On checking out of
hotel in Colombo a friendly tour manager convinced us to take a three
day guided tour across the country, essentially an enhanced version
of our route. Now I've always been easily swayed: you don't need to
be able to sell ice to an eskimo, or even to someone who really needs
ice, because you can, more likely than not, just offload whatever
you're selling onto gullible old me.
But in this instance I
am glad that we were persuaded because it proved a fantastic way to
see the country: temples, elephants, oxcarts, herb gardens, to name
but a few of our pit stops.
We had, however,
massively underestimated how physically gruelling it would be. Up at
6 a.m., non-stop activity till gone 7p.m., sleep and repeat. It was
exhausting.
It all came to a bit of
a head for me on
Day Three
We had spent the
morning climbing a steep stone pathway to the cave temples, with no
water, wearing jeans and hoodies (you have to cover yourself up and
this was all we had). I genuinely did not think we'd make it – I
don't think I could have been warmer wearing a outfit made of
clingfilm in a sauna – but somehow we did it.
Then, no rest for the
wicked, although thankfully changed into cooler clothing and armed
with plenty of water, we set out to the climb Sigiriya Rock. An
immense, 200m tall, red, yellow and grey boulder that was carved out
for kings thousands of years ago. A mighty 1,200 steps stood between
us and the top: oh and swarms of wasps known to be angered by human
voices...
But we were resolved.
We were going to do it.
Except I'd seemed to
have forgotten that I have a paralysing terror of heights. I have to
shut my eyes on escalators if they don't stand against a wall.
Seriously what was I thinking? We reached the bottom, yes the bottom,
and I looked up to see the rock falling towards me. I felt queasy
already.
And yet it actually
started fine, it was going well even, incredible views and a peppy
guide chocked full of interesting information made walking through
the sand-coloured carved walkways, dare I say it, fun.
That is until, about a
quarter of the way up, we had to cross a metal bridge attached to the
side of the rock, with grated flooring that you could see through.
And then, it gets worse, I had
to climb up a spiral staircase – of 50 steps – with the same see
through floor and merely a thin mesh net encircling it.
After
about five steps I tried to go back – but I couldn't – too many
people – I had to go
forward. Panicking, tears began to sting my eyes, I felt nauseous, I
literally have nightmares like this I thought to myself. I began to
crawl. Inching myself upwards. Staring at each step. Crossing my eyes
to blur the view below.
We emerged into a make shift room off the side of the rock looking at ancient frescos. I saw nothing. Blinded by terror. And suddenly we were descending down an identical staircase.
Unbelievably it was even worse going down. Eyes shut I groped my descent.
Eventually
we reached the bottom and I threw in the towel, ran across the
scaffold walkway and scampered down the rock wiping away my tears.
A traumatic experience no doubt, but that said I'm bloody proud of myself, that was the scariest thing I have ever done, and I'd never have imagined I could have made it that far.
A traumatic experience no doubt, but that said I'm bloody proud of myself, that was the scariest thing I have ever done, and I'd never have imagined I could have made it that far.
Saturday, 16 April 2016
The Automatic Car
In
Australia when I told people that I could drive they would ask 'can
you drive a manual?', and I'd look at them incredulously, even
piteously, thinking 'well duh! I said I could drive!'
But
automatic cars are the choice out there, and although as a
'manual driver' I felt my superiority keenly, when it came to driving
my first automatic car I could understand their popularity; it was
sooooo easy.
Me
and my man friend were leant a relative's automatic car
to explore the Victorian countryside (Victoria the state, not the
era....).
All
was going well; we were enjoying the sunshine, a few days off work,
out of the city, away from the hostel, stunning lush countryside, coasting along, and
then we spotted them: dozens of kangaroos.
Stopping
in a teeny tiny country lane we jumped out, clambered through some
bushes and watched the, rather intimidating, marsupials, completely
engrossed.
Suddenly
a great honking sound pierced the air.
A
lorry, god knows what it was doing there, was trying to get past our
car.
Shit!
We
clambered back through the bushes, and emerged looking decidedly
suspicious.
With
an apologetic nod at the judgemental driver we jumped in the car. It
would not start. Oh my god, it would not start. We tried everything.
Nope. Not even a whirr. Shit. My man friend was now signalling to the
lorry driver as if to suggest I'm just a dippy woman. I was
panicking. I'm a nervous driver at the best of times. I was becoming fraught. Shit. My man friend was not helping.
Mr.
lorry driver eventually jumps down and walks over to us. Getting out
of his way I let him slide into the driver's seat. The car starts
immediately, of course.
'You
have to have your foot on the brake to start the car, love' ....
Thursday, 31 March 2016
Barcelona Part Two
When we left off last
time, me and my bestest gal pal were sun-frazzled digging up our
wallets in the sand, this adequately sets the tone for what was about
to follow...
Later that day we
decided to head to da club, and
in the queue for da club we met some men from
Switzerland.
We were drinking in the
queue, as you do. But when we got to the front of the queue we were
refused entry, apparently drinking in the queue is not the done thing
in Barcelona.
Lamenting this refusal,
we decided that the beach was the place to be; this fabled beach of
vibrant nightlife, music, bars, fairy-lights, DJs till dawn.
But that is just what
the beach was: a fable. Nothing really goes on at the beach.
Discovering this, the
Swiss men decided we should all go skinny dipping. They were
unswervable.
We decided that the
easiest course of action was to pacify them, so we acquiesced and
under the understanding that they must go in first and we would
follow, they stripped and ran into the waters. As soon as a safe
distance was reached, we legged it.
****
Later that night we met
some guys from our local area and all headed to the beach to 'sup
some beers in the sand.
All was going well,
until, upon arrival at the beach, we were confronted by some angry
semi-clothed Swiss men adamantly demanding that we return their
wallets, or, at the very least their trousers...
It looked bad. We
looked bad. But we hadn't stolen anything, although our swift exit
upon their entry to the sea, of course looked suspicious...
We wormed our way out
of it, although I'm sure the Swiss men didn't believe we hadn't done
it, and we managed to 'sup our beers in peace.
This story perhaps
doesn't paint us incredibly favourably, but maybe now, dear readers,
you will understand why we had buried our own wallets in the first
place …
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